Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Nature Hikes in Oaxaca, Apoala Oaxaca



Mountains of  Mexico.  Apoala is located in a river valley in the 
Mixtec region of  Northern Oaxaca State 

Nature Hikes in Oaxaca
Apoala, Two Rivers of Paradise   Updated August 2011

     You duck deep into the cavern called the Cave of the Snake and then enter a vaulted room with stalactite ceilings. You hear the gurgling of water. It tells you that you have reached the pool where the underground river bubbles through the rocks. This river will emerge from the cliffs and join the main river in the valley where, according to ancient legends, life first began in the Americas.
    
Apoala Camping  beside the river
     That legend tells how the river bubbling through the grotto gave life to a sacred tree in the valley that in turn gave life to the first humans. The Codex Vindobonensis, now  in the National Library of Vienna, relates the marriage of Lord 1-Flower to Lady 13-Flower, both born of the Great Tree in the valley of the two rivers of Apoala, Paradise in the eyes of some Native Americans.


     From that valley of shading cedars,  the river tumbles over the Tail of the Serpent Cascade, plummeting 400 feet into a green pool and then spilling out into a broad valley, eventually tumbling 5,000 feet and 300 miles to join the Papoloapam River. There it spills into the Gulf of Mexico where Mexico’s first great civilization formed, San Lorenzo Tenochtitlan, the home of  the Olmecs.

Apoala hiking beside the river 


     In the river valley, lodging rooms serve guests who come to hike and bike in the valley of Apoala.  There are small cabins for singles or doubles, and cabins large enough for families.  
Several hours of dirt road scraped from the high plains northeast of Nochixtlan has kept all but the hardiest traveler out of the Valley of Apoala.  

     To protect the pristine environment, the State tourist agency hopes to lure visitors to Santiago Apoala and spread their dollars among the 260 local residents, easing pressure on the scarce resources of palm fronds, building lumber, exotic birds, and endangered animals. 
Oaxaca Ecotours
     To visit and hike in Apoala you must hire a guide at the village visitors center, otherwise, you could not find the cave where the river bubbles through the rocks, the ancient stone carvings, the cascade, or the canyon cliffs where climbers come to repel.  The fees paid to the guides helps the local people preserve the valley.
Mixtec kitchen, ollas and the comal

  Naturalists find a paradise in Apoala; many species of birds visit the valley including Rufous-Capped Warblers, Western Tanagers, Yellow Grosbeak, Violet-Crowned Hummingbirds, and the White-Throated Towhee. A few years ago a naturalist discovered a new variety of small-eared tree frog that lives below the cascade.
      Villagers will put you up for the night if the tourist cabins are full. (Easter week is the only busy time) The local people will feed you fresh cooked tortillas and memilitas in their simple kitchens.
   
Apoala roads for biking and hiking, Apoala, Oaxaca            
     Apoala is a simple paradise where fruit trees are abundant, water pure, and the air crystal clear. While three hours of dirt road through the plains of the Mixtec Alta’s high divide has kept the valley somewhat isolated, these same dirt roads offer the visitor great mountain biking and hiking.




Next, Road Trip, Pacific Coast

2 comments:

  1. Reach Santiago Apoala:
    From Oaxaca City. Head north to Nochixtlan via bus from the second class station, private
    transportation van Service, or private vehicle. Take the toll road, Quota, to Nochixtlan
    and turn right at the first Nochixtlan exit and follow the signs through town and head
    northeast on a dirt and gravel road for 28 miles. Total drive distance will be 75 miles
    and the drive time will be 2.5 hours one way.
    From Nochixtlan collective taxis make the trip to Apoala

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