Monday, September 20, 2010

Road Trip Pacific Coast Route 200 Puerto Escondido to San Blas

Driving In Mexico

Great Roads
The roads in Mexico improve at a rapid pace. In the northern parts of the country, roads have scenery much like you might find in Arizona and Utah. The roads are four-lane, high speed, Cuota, (toll) or Libre, (Free). As you go south, you will find the roads narrowing a bit but otherwise well surfaced. Mexico can be an enjoyable place to drive and the scenery is magnificent. There are a few hazards to keep in mind, however.

Topes
     Foremost among the perils are the topes. These are speed bumps meant to slow traffic. Aimed mainly at the locals, who speed at all times and don’t slow for pedestrians, school crossings, posted speed limits, or anything else for that matter; the topes are erected by the towns to slow vehicles passing through the village.
     The town builds a series of hills constructed of pavement or concrete that stretches across the road. These are often indicated with a sign warning of Tope (in the south, Oaxaca) Reductador, or Vibrador (in the north, Mazatlan). The problem with these topes is that about 30 % of them, particularly in the south, are not marked. You must be vigilant to avoid hitting one at full speed. If you drive for any distance in Mexico, you are bound to hit one. You cannot escape hitting a tope; even the locals slam into them.

Gassing Up
     Mexico has a National provider of Gasoline and diesel, the Pemex station. They are a welcome sight on a long road trip.
Regardless of your destination: Chiapas or Morelia, Merida or Veracruz, you will gas up at Pemex. On a long mountain road such as the one from Mazatlan to Durango and on to Zacatecas and the ruin of Alta Vista, you might need to buy gas from an independent (a restaurant or convenience store that dispenses it form a plastic jug) Otherwise you will buy from Pemex and it is all at the same price.
     While the gas is dispensed at the same price throughout the country, there is one hazard to keep in mind: the attendants often make mistakes when pumping that gas.
You ask for two hundred pesos of Magma, the regular gas, and the attendant pumps one hundred. You ask for four hundred, and they pump three hundred or even two hundred. You must get out of the car and check the amount on the gas pump before you pay; otherwise, you might receive less than you paid for.

Rest Areas
If you are traveling by RV, watch for the Pemex stations outside of the congested cities, they will have a wide paved or gravel area where you can park for an extended rest. The roads will not have rest areas. Otherwise, you can park overnight where you see 18-wheelers park, alongside restaurants and villages. The safest place, however, is the 24- hour Pemex; they are well lit and will often have a security person on duty.


Next: Road Trip Coastal, Oaxaca City to Nogales

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Road Trip Pacific Coast, Oaxaca to Nogales Mexico

Road Trip Coastal, Oaxaca City to Nogales

Driving through Oaxaca City (link)  is no delight. Traffic and topes are not the only concern; political demonstrators could close the streets at any time.
     Once out of the city, on the road towards the airport and eventually the Pacific Coast, you have two choices, Route 175 to Puerto Angel or Route 135 to Puerto Escondido (link). The crossroads comes up shortly after the airport (OAX) turnoff.
Route 175 is a better choice for several reason. The road is better maintained for one, and at times Route 135 could be congested with religious pilgrims traveling by bicycle to the mountain town of Santa Catarina Juquila. The pilgrims are most active during the months of November and December.
On route 175, you will go through Ocotlan a town with market day on Friday (link)  then into a broad valley towards Ejutla, and eventually Miahuatlan. Once you pass Mihuatlan, you start up into the mountains. The road narrows and the hairpin turns come at you rapidly. These mountains will test your brakes and patience. Although the distance by road between Miahuatlan and the coast is a short 90 miles, you will twist through untold peaks and valleys of the Sierra Madre Del Sur for five or more hours.
If darkness comes upon you before you clear the mountains it is best to park for a while until the heavy traffic subsides. The dangers are the buses and vans that shuttle to and from the coast. The drivers push the limits and often hog what little road is available.
There are hotels at a few of the mountaintop towns and you can pull off the road for a nap at the cleared spaces in front of the few roadside restaurants. Otherwise, there are no amenities on this stretch of mountain road. One interesting village at the three quarter point of the mountain trip is the coffee producing town of Pluma Hidalgo. The turnoff is 121 miles out of Oaxaca City. Pluma Hidalgo has a small hotel run by a former coffee broker. Find the hotel at the end of the one street village. The coffee coop roasts its coffee near the main street. You can visit and watch the process.
The mountain road will eventually flatten out as you approach the town of Pochutla where you will find the crossroads for Route 200. If you continue on 175 and cross the main highway, you will come to the coast and the fishing village of Puerto Angel. Route 175 ends in Puerto Angel, having gone about 320 miles and crossing Mexico over two mountain ranges while going from Veracruz on the Gulf of Mexico to Puerto Angel on the Pacific Coast

Three interesting coastal villages might tempt you for a visit: Puerto Angel, Zipolite(link), and Mazunte.





Next: Puerto Escondido